These screws are used to tighten the sides to the dowels. This pulls the canvas in four directions. It should be noted that the angle of the hoop may not be adjustable with the Fanny Hoop. The Standing Hoop is the basic hand-held hoop attached to a floor stand. This is where the name comes from. The most common use for the Fanny Hoop is to sit on the flat part of the stand and work your project. These are height and angle adjustable. As with hoop frames, straight frames have a few attachments available to make your project easier to work. They are also available with many attachments that help make working your project a little easier. Stitch tension that is too tight will, again, distort the canvas. A list of recommended frames and frame accessories may be found on the right side of the stitchopedia Frames page. Again, the height and angle of the frame are adjustable.
There are two important reasons to use a frame for needlepoint. The fabric must be kept taut when the larger hoop is screwed in. This frame consists of two dowels that fit into two straight sides. This round frame consists of two rings (hoops). The Stretcher Bar Frame consists of four straight wooden pieces that are assembled to create a square or rectangle. The most common hoop frame is the Hand-Held Hoop. Straight frames may be mounted on floor stands, keeping your hands completely free. This hoop stand may be worked on a table. If the canvas becomes severely distorted, finishing the project with a wall frame may become impossible. Again, flat-head thumbtacks work best. Working with a frame will free your hands, allowing you to maintain an even rhythm as you work the needle up and down through the canvas. This is an extremely portable hoop frame and is available in wood, plastic or metal. The first and most important reason for using a frame is to prevent the canvas from becoming distorted by the stitches. Hoop frames are available in many sizes, from four inches to twelve inches in diameter. Scroll Frames are especially useful for large pieces.
There are also hoops available with clamps that attach to the side of a table. This will enable you to keep your stitch tension even. The final decision about working with a frame is, of course, up to you. Another common straight frame is the Stretcher Bar Frame. The most commonly used straight frame is the Scroll Frame. The sides are generally secured by screws on each of the four corners. The sides of the canvas would then need to be attached to the two straight wooden sides. This frame is available in many different sizes. The inside measurements of the frame should be slightly larger than the area of the canvas that is to be worked. An even stitch tension is the major factor in preventing canvas distortion. Stretcher Bar Frames may also be used to frame the finished piece. Once you have finished working the area that is visible, simply remove the side thumbtacks, unscrew the tightener screws, roll (scroll) the canvas up until you reach the next portion of your piece, tighten the tightener screws and attach the canvas to the sides, again, with flat-head thumbtacks.
The canvas would be attached (flat-head thumbtacks are best) to each dowel, with the bottom dowel being turned - or scrolled - until the canvas is tight. cationic yarn The straight frame has also been referred to as the slate frame. Stitch tension that is too loose will cause snagging. Hoop frames are suited to fine detailed work (like embroidery) and should be used when working with softer canvases, such as aida cloth or linen. The canvas is attached to all four straight wooden pieces (flat-head thumbtacks are best, but you may use staples). The Fanny Hoop is the basic hand-held hoop attached to a flat stand. There are two basic types of needlepoint frames the round (hoop) frame and the straight frame. The height and angle of the frame are adjustable with floor stands. The second reason supports the first reason. Some straight frames come equipped with a sit-on stand.While many needlepoint books and resources insist that the use of a frame is not necessary for most projects, I am unable to imagine working any needlepoint project without one. The canvas or material would be placed on top of the smaller hoop and the larger hoop would then be placed over the smaller hoop (with the canvas) and tightened by an outside screw. The hoop frame is sometimes referred to as the tambour frame. Proper stitch tension will allow the yarn to be kept taut around the canvas threads. Be sure to choose a size that is sufficient for your piece.. These are generally made of wood and can be adjusted for height and hoop angle
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